Over last couple of years, cycling
has become a passion and a way of life for me. On 23rd March 2016, I
signed up with Youth Hostel Association of India for this 12 days (including
test ride) bicycle ride in the Himalayan valley from 15 Miles to Leh. It was
not just covering this route on cycle, for me it was discovering life, pushing
myself physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually. It was for testing
the strength of my grit, belief and purpose. It was for getting inspired and
hopefully for being an inspiration. I will share an everyday account of this
amazing cycling trip through one of the toughest terrains in the world.
Day 0 – July 10, 2016
We reached 15 Miles YHAI base Camp
at 8:30 am. In the afternoon I took a walk to the Manali market and Hidimba
Temple. From the Manali market, I could see Rohtang Pass. We were in total 53
riders in Batch 1 who were leaving for ride on 13th July 2016. In evening,
we sat down at Beas River side near our Base camp. After Dinner at base camp,
we get to know each other in introduction session.
Day 1 & 2 – July 11-12, 2016
In morning, we got our bicycles
from YHAI with all required accessories. Then after lunch we got ready for our
test ride to Naggar, a beautiful village between Manali and Kullu. We had two
trips to Naggar Castle with some steep climbing. There is a Russian painter,
archaeologist Nicholas Roerich home converted into Museum in Naggar Castle. While
returning to base camp, we enjoyed Fresh Apples from Orchards.
Day 3 – July 13, 2016 (15 Miles to
Marhi – 48km)
We started our ride from 15 Miles
to our next destination Marhi, roughly 48 kms. Total climb of the day was 1800
meters. I started at 9:00 am after SDM arrived for flag off. I was riding
Firefox Target D, which performed up to the mark on the rough route. We passed
through Manali and took a 15 min break to click photographs. Till Marhi, I did
solo ride waving to other riders & Army in between. As it was my first long
climbing experience, I had to stop after every 15-20 minutes for break. Near
Solang Valley, I met a couple who were riding with their tents and bags which
motivated me.
By 2:00 pm we had a break for
lunch. At that time, there was around 18km to be covered. Clouds started
gathering and suddenly there was no visibility beyond 5-10 feet. Then it
started drizzling at around 3:30 pm. Luckily, I was not carrying Rain coat with
me and started feeling cold. I pedaled continuously for last 1:30 hrs. &
drank water from my Hydration Bag without stopping and reached Marhi by 5:00
pm. By far this was the toughest day of this journey. Some of the riders kept
arriving by 10:00 pm by night and some of them quit the next morning.
Day 4 – July 14, 2016 (Marhi to
Sissu – 45km)
We started our ride in foggy
weather from Marhi to climb Rohtang Pass. It is a ride to Rohtang Pass located
at 3978 meters. Interestingly Rohtang
means “pile of corpses” as many people die trying to cross the pass during cold
weather and unpredictable snowstorms. From the top, breathtaking views of the
glaciers and snow clad mountains of the Chandrabhaga Range on the other side of
the pass was spectacular. The ride down was challenging due to very bad road
conditions. Many bikers and tourists were saluting us or giving thumbs up
throughout the route, which boosts my morale and my dream of carrying National
Flag on my bike, motivated me. I enjoyed the most on downhill with speed and
drifting and singing patriotic songs.
The downhill ride ended in Koksar
where we had lunch at roadside dhaba. After Koksar there were some plain
straight downhill roads towards Sissu where many of us might have touched the
speeds of 70’s and 80’s. The camp site at Sissu was wonderful with Chenab River
flowing in the backyard. There was a waterfall flowing through a heart shaped
rock structure. This was one of the best camp sites of this journey and there
was no shortage or supply of water.
Day 5 – July 15, 2016 (Sissu to
Jispa – 60km)
After Sissu I decided to reach at
last to every milestone and enjoy the ride with fellow riders. Sissu to Jispa
is around 60kms along with Chandra and Bhaga rivers. It turned out to be a
rough ride due to bad roads, sudden change in gradients, and hot afternoon.
Parts of the road were filled with thick layer of dust and rubbles. We took a
break in between at Tandi for 30 minutes and had lunch. From Tandi, there was a
climbing road towards Keylong. I took a break under shades and wait for fellow
riders to join. We then again took a break at Keylong for lunch. The road from
Keylong was unexpectedly tough as the road suddenly increased in gradient and
afternoon was very hot. Final stretch towards Jispa is a complete downhill with
sharp turns in between. After Jispa there are no mobile postpaid network
connections. Jispa was the place where we got built up location for stay. It
took 8 hours to complete this ride.
Day 6 – July 16, 2016 (Jispa to
Zing-Zing Bar – 35km)
Today we ride from Jispa to
Zing-Zing bar. Our route continued along the Bhaga River till Darcha. From
Darcha the roads climbed in switch back turns and gradually lead to Zing-Zing
bar. Zing-Zing bar is at the base of Baralachla climbs, the next major
milestone on our tour. There were multiple waterfalls and at the base of
waterfalls there were loose boulders or nala’s. Crossing the boulders on cycle
required some skill. On the route, we had a brief halt at Patseo near Deepak
Taal as it was drizzling outside. After Deepak Taal, we passed through the
first Army base camp and I felt so patriotic to see our soldiers. Zing-Zing bar
camp was at 4300 meters altitude. Oxygen levels were periodically checked for
those who were feeling uncomfortable. It was the first time I felt bit
difficult in breathing.
Day 7 – July 17, 2016 (Zing-Zing
Bar to Sarchu – 53km)
The strenuous section and high
altitude of the trip begins from here. From Zing-Zing bar the hard climbed
started and continued to Baralachla, elevation of 16040 feet/4890 meters. Route
passed through beautiful Lake of Suraj Taal. A group of motorcyclists were
amazed to see me riding a cycle on top of Baralachla. They applauded “Bravo,
Bravo” and took some pictures. The views from the pass are amazing. At higher
altitudes, oxygen availability is less so the efforts get automatically
multiplied. Once again weather changed drastically and it started raining.
Sarchu is the border between
Himachal and Jammu & Kashmir. This was the point where we had crossed Spiti
Valley and entered into Ladakh Valley. Road descends from the pass to the
plains of Sarchu. The landscape changed completely with no trace of trees. The
landscape is awe-inspiring – blue sky, enormous mountains, and marvelous
contours of the rivers.
Day 8 – July 18, 2016 (Sarchu to
Whisky Nala – 48km)
Today is an uphill ride covering
the famous Ghata Loops and Nakeela Pass and downhill to Whisky Nala. Ghata
Loops is a 21 hairpin bends that takes us from 4190 meters to 4630 meters.
Nakeela pass is at 15547 feet/ 4950 meters after Ghata Loops. It was a proud
moment for me at Nakeela Pass and riding with the flag on my bike. I again did
solo ride after Ghata Loop end till Whisky Nala because of late hours.
Day 9 – July 19, 2016 (Whisky Nala
to Pang – 29km)
This was the small distance ride of
complete journey. There was around 6km of climb till Lachungla Pass and then
downhill till Pang. Pang is one of the world’s highest transit camps of army.
At that night, I called my home from Army’s Satellite phone and ensured them
everything is alright.
Day 10 – July 20, 2016 (Pang to Debring
– 41km)
At Pang, Flag off was done by Army
Major at around 9:00 am. After climbing 5km we reached Moore Plains. These are
the world’s largest plains after 16000ft height. It is a very good road
surrounded by deserts and mountains. Our camp site was at Debring, which was
the highest camp site of all. It was at 4600+ meters of height. There were some
dried up lakes along the roads and it was very hot in afternoon. For long
distances there was nobody. We sat down silently near a milestone for an hour.
Day 11 – July 21, 2016 (Debring to
Rumtse – 56km)
Today was the second most difficult
ride on our tour to cross Taglangla. Taglangla is at 17582 feet/ 5359 meters
and is claimed to be the second highest motorable pass in the world. I was
persistent and kept riding. It was a great relief to reach on the top. We
celebrated, danced a lot at the pass. I stayed there for 1:30 hours and took my
lunch. The downhill ride to Rumtse was rewarding. The camp site at Rumtse was
one of the best with 24 hours water stream flowing and farms spread on the
sides of tents.
Day 12 – July 22, 2016 (Rumtse to
Leh – 80km)
We are now close to the end of this
amazing journey. The ride to Leh is great as we say human habitats, animals and
trees after many days. Roadside after Upshi you find military establishments
and beautiful monasteries co-existing. The road is mostly plain except for the
last 10km stretch to Leh which gradually goes up. On the route we came across
Rancho’s school, Thiksey and Shey Monasteries. It felt like heaven when we
finally reached our last base camp in Leh.
We had 53 members in our batch out
of which 43 managed to reach till Leh. We cycled for about 80 hours throughout
the journey. The next two days we explored Leh city and visited places like
Shanti Stupa, Zorawar Fort, Hall of Fame, French Bakery and Leh Market. On July
24, 2016 I returned back to Delhi with my first ever experience in Air India.
Few of the quotes that I kept
telling myself throughout the journey and following them heartedly are:-
Never Criticize, Always Encourage.
You just want to be passionate.
Find something you care about and care deeply.
Treat others as you would like to
be treated.
If you only do what you can do, you
will never be more than you are now.
Finally quoting a FB post from one
of the friends in the group, which sums up the whole journey - Mountains, they
test you, bring you on your knees, break your over-confidence, sometimes part you
in millions of pieces and then all you know is – Life is not about getting
stuck in complications but about living the simplicities.