Historical Cycling Tour from 15 Miles to Leh

Over last couple of years, cycling has become a passion and a way of life for me. On 23^rd March 2016, I signed up with Youth Hostel Association of India for this 12 days (including test ride) bicycle ride in the Himalayan valley from 15 Miles to Leh. It was not just covering this route on cycle, for me it was discovering life, pushing myself physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually. It was for testing the strength of my grit, belief and purpose. It was for getting inspired and hopefully for being an inspiration. I will share an everyday account of this amazing cycling trip through one of the toughest terrains in the world.

Day 0 – July 10, 2016

We reached 15 Miles YHAI base Camp at 8:30 am. In the afternoon I took a walk to the Manali market and Hidimba Temple. From the Manali market, I could see Rohtang Pass. We were in total 53 riders in Batch 1 who were leaving for ride on 13^th July 2016. In evening, we sat down at Beas River side near our Base camp. After Dinner at base camp, we get to know each other in introduction session.

Day 1 & 2 – July 11-12, 2016

In morning, we got our bicycles from YHAI with all required accessories. Then after lunch we got ready for our test ride to Naggar, a beautiful village between Manali and Kullu. We had two trips to Naggar Castle with some steep climbing. There is a Russian painter, archaeologist Nicholas Roerich home converted into Museum in Naggar Castle. While returning to base camp, we enjoyed Fresh Apples from Orchards.

Day 3 – July 13, 2016 (15 Miles to Marhi – 48km)

We started our ride from 15 Miles to our next destination Marhi, roughly 48 kms. Total climb of the day was 1800 meters. I started at 9:00 am after SDM arrived for flag off. I was riding Firefox Target D, which performed up to the mark on the rough route. We passed through Manali and took a 15 min break to click photographs. Till Marhi, I did solo ride waving to other riders & Army in between. As it was my first long climbing experience, I had to stop after every 15-20 minutes for break. Near Solang Valley, I met a couple who were riding with their tents and bags which motivated me. 

By 2:00 pm we had a break for lunch. At that time, there was around 18km to be covered. Clouds started gathering and suddenly there was no visibility beyond 5-10 feet. Then it started drizzling at around 3:30 pm. Luckily, I was not carrying Rain coat with me and started feeling cold. I pedaled continuously for last 1:30 hrs. & drank water from my Hydration Bag without stopping and reached Marhi by 5:00 pm. By far this was the toughest day of this journey. Some of the riders kept arriving by 10:00 pm by night and some of them quit the next morning.

Day 4 – July 14, 2016 (Marhi to Sissu – 45km)

We started our ride in foggy weather from Marhi to climb Rohtang Pass. It is a ride to Rohtang Pass located at 3978 meters.   Interestingly Rohtang means “pile of corpses” as many people die trying to cross the pass during cold weather and unpredictable snowstorms. From the top, breathtaking views of the glaciers and snow clad mountains of the Chandrabhaga Range on the other side of the pass was spectacular. The ride down was challenging due to very bad road conditions. Many bikers and tourists were saluting us or giving thumbs up throughout the route, which boosts my morale and my dream of carrying National Flag on my bike, motivated me. I enjoyed the most on downhill with speed and drifting and singing patriotic songs.

The downhill ride ended in Koksar where we had lunch at roadside dhaba. After Koksar there were some plain straight downhill roads towards Sissu where many of us might have touched the speeds of 70’s and 80’s. The camp site at Sissu was wonderful with Chenab River flowing in the backyard. There was a waterfall flowing through a heart shaped rock structure. This was one of the best camp sites of this journey and there was no shortage or supply of water.

Day 5 – July 15, 2016 (Sissu to Jispa – 60km)

After Sissu I decided to reach at last to every milestone and enjoy the ride with fellow riders. Sissu to Jispa is around 60kms along with Chandra and Bhaga rivers. It turned out to be a rough ride due to bad roads, sudden change in gradients, and hot afternoon. Parts of the road were filled with thick layer of dust and rubbles. We took a break in between at Tandi for 30 minutes and had lunch. From Tandi, there was a climbing road towards Keylong. I took a break under shades and wait for fellow riders to join. We then again took a break at Keylong for lunch. The road from Keylong was unexpectedly tough as the road suddenly increased in gradient and afternoon was very hot. Final stretch towards Jispa is a complete downhill with sharp turns in between. After Jispa there are no mobile postpaid network connections. Jispa was the place where we got built up location for stay. It took 8 hours to complete this ride.

Day 6 – July 16, 2016 (Jispa to Zing-Zing Bar – 35km)

Today we ride from Jispa to Zing-Zing bar. Our route continued along the Bhaga River till Darcha. From Darcha the roads climbed in switch back turns and gradually lead to Zing-Zing bar. Zing-Zing bar is at the base of Baralachla climbs, the next major milestone on our tour. There were multiple waterfalls and at the base of waterfalls there were loose boulders or nala’s. Crossing the boulders on cycle required some skill. On the route, we had a brief halt at Patseo near Deepak Taal as it was drizzling outside. After Deepak Taal, we passed through the first Army base camp and I felt so patriotic to see our soldiers. Zing-Zing bar camp was at 4300 meters altitude. Oxygen levels were periodically checked for those who were feeling uncomfortable. It was the first time I felt bit difficult in breathing.

Day 7 – July 17, 2016 (Zing-Zing Bar to Sarchu – 53km)

The strenuous section and high altitude of the trip begins from here. From Zing-Zing bar the hard climbed started and continued to Baralachla, elevation of 16040 feet/4890 meters. Route passed through beautiful Lake of Suraj Taal. A group of motorcyclists were amazed to see me riding a cycle on top of Baralachla. They applauded “Bravo, Bravo” and took some pictures. The views from the pass are amazing. At higher altitudes, oxygen availability is less so the efforts get automatically multiplied. Once again weather changed drastically and it started raining.

Sarchu is the border between Himachal and Jammu & Kashmir. This was the point where we had crossed Spiti Valley and entered into Ladakh Valley. Road descends from the pass to the plains of Sarchu. The landscape changed completely with no trace of trees. The landscape is awe-inspiring – blue sky, enormous mountains, and marvelous contours of the rivers.

Day 8 – July 18, 2016 (Sarchu to Whisky Nala – 48km)

Today is an uphill ride covering the famous Ghata Loops and Nakeela Pass and downhill to Whisky Nala. Ghata Loops is a 21 hairpin bends that takes us from 4190 meters to 4630 meters. Nakeela pass is at 15547 feet/ 4950 meters after Ghata Loops. It was a proud moment for me at Nakeela Pass and riding with the flag on my bike. I again did solo ride after Ghata Loop end till Whisky Nala because of late hours.

Day 9 – July 19, 2016 (Whisky Nala to Pang – 29km)

This was the small distance ride of complete journey. There was around 6km of climb till Lachungla Pass and then downhill till Pang. Pang is one of the world’s highest transit camps of army. At that night, I called my home from Army’s Satellite phone and ensured them everything is alright.

Day 10 – July 20, 2016 (Pang to Debring – 41km)

At Pang, Flag off was done by Army Major at around 9:00 am. After climbing 5km we reached Moore Plains. These are the world’s largest plains after 16000ft height. It is a very good road surrounded by deserts and mountains. Our camp site was at Debring, which was the highest camp site of all. It was at 4600+ meters of height. There were some dried up lakes along the roads and it was very hot in afternoon. For long distances there was nobody. We sat down silently near a milestone for an hour.

Day 11 – July 21, 2016 (Debring to Rumtse – 56km)

Today was the second most difficult ride on our tour to cross Taglangla. Taglangla is at 17582 feet/ 5359 meters and is claimed to be the second highest motorable pass in the world. I was persistent and kept riding. It was a great relief to reach on the top. We celebrated, danced a lot at the pass. I stayed there for 1:30 hours and took my lunch. The downhill ride to Rumtse was rewarding. The camp site at Rumtse was one of the best with 24 hours water stream flowing and farms spread on the sides of tents.

Day 12 – July 22, 2016 (Rumtse to Leh – 80km)

We are now close to the end of this amazing journey. The ride to Leh is great as we say human habitats, animals and trees after many days. Roadside after Upshi you find military establishments and beautiful monasteries co-existing. The road is mostly plain except for the last 10km stretch to Leh which gradually goes up. On the route we came across Rancho’s school, Thiksey and Shey Monasteries. It felt like heaven when we finally reached our last base camp in Leh.

We had 53 members in our batch out of which 43 managed to reach till Leh. We cycled for about 80 hours throughout the journey. The next two days we explored Leh city and visited places like Shanti Stupa, Zorawar Fort, Hall of Fame, French Bakery and Leh Market. On July 24, 2016 I returned back to Delhi with my first ever experience in Air India.

Few of the quotes that I kept telling myself throughout the journey and following them heartedly are:-

Never Criticize, Always Encourage.

You just want to be passionate. Find something you care about and care deeply.

Treat others as you would like to be treated.

If you only do what you can do, you will never be more than you are now.

Finally quoting a FB post from one of the friends in the group, which sums up the whole journey - Mountains, they test you, bring you on your knees, break your over-confidence, sometimes part you in millions of pieces and then all you know is – Life is not about getting stuck in complications but about living the simplicities.